Sea-renity – Polignano a Mare, Italia- 17 ottobre 2015


Good morning, Ostuni!  The views from our terrace are great.



I think it’s just me, Amy and the cats this morning.


Is the coast clear?  Good question for the cats – and, us!


We’re headed to the sea, to the sea, to the beautiful sea…to work out the blues – the blue sky and the blue water.

We took the local bus from Piazza Libertà to the Ostuni train station (€0,90 and about 10 minutes) and, then the 8:45 a.m. Trenitalia train (€3,2  for a 42 km ride) to Polignano a Mare.  This gorgeous little town is just a short walk from the train stop.  It’s always nice when you don’t have to wait for a bus or a taxi!



Blue sky?  Check!


Blue sea?  Check!



Some small samples of the characteristic ceramics found in the Apulia region.


It was a great day to fish.



Cool door.  Opened differently than I thought it would.


If we passed a person, or even a few people, we always spoke a clear greeting – which sometimes turned into a conversation.  People like to be acknowledged.



Looked like important business going on – we didn’t interrupt.


She was carrying her pug because he was hot.  The plight of the brachycephalic dog.


The watchful woman.


The Reader.


Postprandial pleasure.


I don’t have the courage to interrupt Don Johnson.


Some of the sights as we subconsciously made our way down to the beach…


My obsession with laundry continues.


I liked the symmetry of the plants on this balcony.



I wish the Broncos didn’t come to mind every time I see blue and orange!


Dutch doors.  Perfect way to keep dogs in and allow for fresh air.


Walking while their wives prepare the afternoon meal?  This was about as crowded as it got along the sea walk, today.


High tide tire detritus.


I can relate to this adventure in moving!


Talk about a friendly crowd!



I went into a bar and ordered un caffè.  I think if you have camera in your hand, they want clarification – to know if you really want an espresso or the large cup of American joe. (I really wanted the smooth, creamy and addictive espresso!).  You don’t pay when you order, but, when you are ready to leave.  When I finished, I asked, “Quanto costa?” He shook his finger at me and said , “No.  Quanto pago?” He explained (in Italiano) that since I already drank the espresso, I should ask how much I should pay, not how much it costs. He told me the caffè was 1 euro and the language lesson was free.  Those are the kind of lessons I don’t forget.  It was a nice interaction.


We found what is probably the most prominent, or at least easily accessible, beach in town.



Time for lunch…

Before we left for this trip, Amy told me she wanted to eat at Grotta Palazzese.  It’s a beautiful restaurant set in cliffside caves – and, it’s really expensive.  I’m a practical person.  I know I can get beautiful all over Italy.  And, I know a I can eat delicious meals without blowing the daily budget.  I told her I might consider an overpriced afternoon cocktail, but, that was about it.

While looking for a lunch spot today, the little trattorie and osterie kept getting the thumbs down from my travel mate – and, ta da, guess where we ended up?!  When Amy gets something in her head, it’s best just to give in.  She generously offered to buy lunch in return for my trip planning, so perchè non?

The ambience was all it was cracked up to be…  The food was delicious.  And, I know the bill was impressive.  Grazie mille, la mia amica!


Amy is sitting with her back to the camera at the third table from the left on the lower level.



You don’t want to know how much this fish cost.  I bet the fisherman at the pier wish someone would pay them a fraction of the price for the fish they catch!


“”No signorina, you may not wash dishes in exchange for your meal.”



You can’t beat fresh calamari.


A drive-by snorkeler.


Ravioli with lobster, zucchini flowers and baby spinach.  I always try to order in Italian – turns out ‘baby spinach’ is not ‘spinaci bambino’.  Oops!


He looks pretty thrilled about filleting the fish, doesn’t he?


Sea bass – my new favorite fish.


Our taxi has arrived.  Ha!

On our way into the restaurant, we overheard an American woman complaining to her husband about the choice of restaurants.  As it turns out, she was there with her husband, son and Italian daughter-in-law to be.  I think she was as disgruntled about her son’s choice of spouse as she was the restaurant.  A long road ahead for that family!



Some more sights as we headed back to the train station to catch the 15:34 back to Ostuni…



In spite of the plastic chairs, this is surprisingly one of my favorite photos from the trip.


Oh, I haven’t told you about Antoinio!  Meet Tony.  I’m certain he’s an icon in these parts. Amy and I came upon him while (s)trolling the hood.  He played a song (especially for us, of course) and when a group of German tourists came along, we went on our way.  But, who should we see at the train station later?  Uh huh.  We had quite the conversation – mostly in Italian.  We talked about music (of course), how his wife died, his past careers, religion… And, he asked about a dozen times if we wanted to go to his house for a ‘nap’, a snack (he suggested mushrooms) and a ride in his friend’s car to Alberobello (because we were talking about trying to go the Alberobello, later) at exactly 9:00 p.m.  He didn’t give up easily.  Honestly, he was a nice guy.  Blues we weren’t expecting…Apulia Blues.  You can check him out on


Well, on that musical note, I’ll call it a day.  Tomorrow?  Lecce!

1 thought on “Sea-renity – Polignano a Mare, Italia- 17 ottobre 2015

  1. Your pictures are amazing. I like your blog and need to be a more regular reader. 🙂
    Love the fact that you had lunch at the gorgeous restaurant!


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