It’s a travel day. It’s pouring rain. A trend is emerging.
Getting from the island of Ischia to Positano, on the Amalfi coast, could be uncomplicated, but what’s the fun in that?! Our plan was to take a ferry to Capri and then a ferry to Positano. We wanted as few transfers as possible because of luggage – and, we traveled light (one 46L backpack and a daypack each).
Well, Mother Nature demanded a little attention and said, “Oh no, ladies! I’m not letting you off that easy! Punt!”
The hydrofoil to Capri was cancelled. Only the large ferries were sailing. And, they were only sailing to Napoli. So, we were going to have to do what we didn’t want to do – ferry to Napoli, taxi to Piazza Garibaldi (the scene of the crime!), train to Sorrento, and, lastly, a bus to Positano. Ugh!
We bought our ferry ticket (17,60 euros) at Ischia Porto and were fortunate to find a sheltered place to sit and wait for the 11:45 ferry. We thought these seats were across from where the ferry would dock. But, no. So, that put as at the back of the line, in the rain, waiting to board. Oh well, last on, first off.
To say the sea was rough is an understatement. The ferry would ride to the top of a swell and then crash down. My travel partner turned white (well, lighter than her fair-skinned self) and starting digging for a zip lock bag in her pack. She wasn’t the only affected person. Fortunately, I wasn’t one of them – and, secretly thought it was kind of fun, like an amusement ride. An Italian man on the other side of me kept saying ole’ every time the ferry jumped the sea hurdles. He was also singing a comforting little tune (for others). Very nice of him. Everyone was relieved to see the shore – and, about that time one of the ferry employees starting passing out barf bags. A little too late, sir…
When we got off the ferry, Amy turned to me and said, “No more boats!” Eight minutes later, we were on another ferry to Sorrento! As it turned out, the 13:00 ferry from Napoli to Sorrento was indeed sailing (12,30 euros), and, we made the very quick decision to avoid the planned taxi and train. Amy took one for the team. Thankfully, it was a much smoother ride without incident. Amy confessed she was thinking about the mechanism of vomiting on the first ferry. Ha!
We hauled our backpacks from the shore – up! And, up! And, up! We finally arrived at the stazione (train and bus station). We bought our SITA bus tickets (1,80 euros each) and, again, found it less than obvious to find the bus stops. There were two, and, we chose the wrong one. Hey we had a 50/50 chance! We enjoyed the beautiful ride to Positano (those poor drivers – it’s a bitch of a drive in a bus).
We got to our hotel, Albergo California, looking like drowned water rats, only to find out there was a problem with our reservation for the first night of the three night stay. I was not happy. I had made that reservation almost 10 months ago on booking.com. And, I had called the hotel during our travels to find out where to get off the bus – they didn’t mention a problem then.
Antonio, at Albergo California, had arranged for us to stay the first night at a 4 star hotel – Hotel Poseidon. He drove us himself. (The main reason I was disgruntled was because our bags were soaked. I really wanted to hang things out to dry – not leave them festering in a bag for another night. Oh, well. We are here and it is nice to be here after a long travel day.)
This is a 4 star bathroom. That’s a lot of white on a lot of green!
We decided to get a light lunch at Caffè Positano – you know, to hold us over until dinner!
Oh, look! It’s time for dinner (cena) already! And, dinner was wonderful! We ate at da Vincenzo Positano. Marcella, Vincenzo’s wife, took our drink order. We told her we wanted to practice the language and asked if she would humor us by speaking only in Italiano. A few minutes later, a young waiter (geez, they’re all adorable) came to our table and started speaking English. He said to us, “Tell me everything!” Marcella asked him to speak Italiano to us. And, of course, he did. At one point, what seemed like a mild hurricane blew through and caused a huge ruckus with the outdoor portion of the restaurant, but, they quickly got their act together. Great place if you’re ever here! Super family!
Tomorrow’s a new day – may the sun shine brightly!